1000 Places to See Before You Die 7 - The Witches Market in La Paz, Bolivia

When I was recently in Bolivia one of the sights worth seeing mentioned in my guide book was the local Witches Market or Mercado de Hechicería. I decided to stop by as I was spendid the day wandering the city. The book said it would be a "real" witches market with magic items, such as dried up llama fetuses, for sale. I took this with a grain of salt and expected a touristy type affair. But I am glad to say that I was partly mistaken. There were indeed dried up llama fetuses for sale, next to more conventional souvenirs. Not speaking Spanish myself, I found it a little hard to do more than browse the stalls, but I did mange to buy two small statuettes of a llama and an owl to commemorate my trip to the Witches Market. When the lady wrapped them up for me, she put "scarves" of bright colored wool around their necks. I have no idea what that was about, but I am going to assume that the statuettes are a good influence in my house.

Heading to the market. I didn't like sticking my
camera in people's faces at the actual market,
so you will have to go and see the llama fetuses for yourself

Aside from the llama fetuses, which even I could identify, the market also sells other items. The guide book mentions coca leaves, snake skin, herbal mixes, llama fat and amulets. Lately the market has begun to adapt to the many tourists stopping by and also sells alpaca sweaters and socks and woven cloths. It is located on Calle Linares between Calle Santa Cruz and Calle Sagárnaga. As I recall, it was very easy to find. I believe it was marked on the city map I got from the hotel, but otherwise a bit of asking around should get you there.

The doors of the basilica with a woman
in traditional dress and bowler hat in front

Plaza Murillo

A pigeon has taken up residence 

As for the rest of the city it is worth a wander, but the tourist friendly zone is quite small, and I felt like I had seen all the sights after about a day. Luckily there are many things to see and do in the surrounding area, and your hotel should be able to help you find tours to suit you. A lot of people use a stopover in La Paz as an opportunity to try their hand at cycling the famous Death Road. I declined and went for a trip to the nearby Valle della Luna instead, along with a trip up the mountains. I believe the specific mountain top we went to was called Chucutaya, and we reached about 5200 m altitude by car. Hiking to the top was optional, but I was struggling with the altitude (and I'm lazy), so I decided to stay, and enjoy the scenery from the car park. Which was stunning too! The Valle della Luna consisted of natural formations of mud which washed away in the rain leading to stunning landscapes. Unfortunately the beauty of it does not really translate well in photos (at least not mine), but you get the idea.

Going up the mountain

Valle della Luna

Valle della Luna

When traveling in Bolivia altitude is an issue that needs to be considered. I didn't, which resulted in me not packing enough warm clothes and getting a sun burn on the first day, because it was deceptively cold, even though the sun was shining. Chap-stick is also an essential, and I went through more chap-stick in those few days in the altitude, than I did the entire winter at home. It's also important to stay hydrated, so bring a water bottle with you. Preferably a reusable one to spare the environment. The altitude can also result in altitude sickness, so beware of symptoms including headaches, dizziness, nausea and trouble sleeping. If you feel unwell always tell your guide or seek professional help if you are traveling alone, as these symptoms can worsen and ultimately be fatal. If you are going into high altitudes read more on altitude sickness, so you know the symptoms and are prepared to act.

All facts are from “1000 Places to See Before You Die” by Patricia Schultz